Soda Can Robot


Products Used

  • SC-11 Blue Yonder
  • SC-15 Tuxedo
  • SC-16 Cotton Tail
  • SC-60 Silver Lining
  • SC-74 Hot Tamale
  • SC-76 Cara-bein Blue
Decorating Accessories
  • CB-106 #6 Script Liner
  • CB-602 - #2 Soft Fan
  • BT-910 - Synthetic Sponges
Additional Materials
  • Pencil, Tape, Copy Paper, Soda Can, Pony Roller, Moist Clay, Beedle Tool, 1/4" Wooden Slats, Canvas, Rolling Pin, Fettling Knife, Slip/Clay Slurry, Wood Modeling Tool, Mesh or Screen Material, Steel Rib, Epoxy Glue, Flashlight Bulbs,Wire Condit Tubing, Electrical Wire
Project Info
  • Designer: Marcia Roullard
  • Skill Level: Basic
  • Time: 2 Hours



  1. Shop first before beginning this project.  The pieces added to the finished piece must fit the fired clay.  are used for the eyes, and is used for the handle, purchased from an auto supply store, electrical wire for the ears.
  2. Cut a 3 ½ inch circle from the clay for the lid, cut a 2 ½ inch circle and slip attach to the larger circle for the lip of the lid.
  3. Wrap a piece of copy paper around a soda can. Roll the can on the diagonal till the paper is used up, then secure with a small piece of tape.
  4. Roll out clay ¼ thick. Cut a rectangle 9x5. With a pony roller, thin the clay at one of the short sides. Score the topside of the thinned edge.
  5. Lay the can on the clay at the thicker side. Roll the clay onto the can. Score the remaining side using slip (mix of clay you are using and water in a sour cream consistency) on the scored surface. Press the pieces together.
  6. Take excess clay and roll out ¼” slab for the bottom of the piece. Score the clay on the bottom portion of your cylinder adding slip in preparation to be placed on the slab.  Place the cylinder shape with the can still inside on top of the slab.  Cut around the cylinder leaving about an 1/8 inch extra clay. Push up the extra clay on to the sides of the cylinder sealing the bottom layer to the side walls of your tube.
  7. Leave the coke can in the clay till the walls of your vessel are stiff enough to stand on their own.  If you put a little hole in the bottom it will release easier, as it can form a vacuum. When removing the can the paper should stay behind.  You can remove the paper at any time. Remember to fill in the little hole of this vessel if you wish it to hold liquids.
  8. Thin out the ¼ inch clay slightly then cut stripe of clay ½ inch wide, fit the clay around the appropriate size wrapped dowel rod for the tubing on the lid, and the eyes.
  9. Score and Slip attach these pieces to the forms, roll small coils to fit into the gaps around the eyes, use the wood modeling tool to shape the coil into the eyes.  Make a hole in the center of the space for the eyes to fit the light bulb, make the hole larger as it will shrink as it dries and during the firing.
  10. Use the thinner clay to roll into a mesh or screen to texture for the nose, cut into a triangle shape, curve the shape then attach to the face.
  11. Cut a rectangle shape for the mouth then slip attach to the face.  Same for the ears, use a tool to make a hole in the ear rectangles for electrical wire.
  12. The legs are made form ½  -3/4 inch thick clay, starting with. Cut three circles of clay for each leg. The largest circle at 1 ¾ inch diameter, the middle section of leg at 1 ½ inch, and top at 1 inch diameter.  Use the clay fettling tool to angle the sides, so they narrow at the top. Attach the three pieces together with slip.
  13. You can epoxy after glaze firing or you can score and attach to the cylinder.
  14. Texture the background of the robot with the serrated side of steel rib.
  15. Allow to dry slowly.
  16. When dry, check to make sure the all the non-clay pieces still fit loosely.
  17. Bisque fire to shelf cone 04.

Glazing Directions

  1. Using a CB-602 #2 Soft Fan, apply 2 thinned coats of SC-60 Silver Lining to the body and lid of the robot.
  2. Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 3 coats of SC-74 Hot Tamale to the eyes and one rectangle of the ears.
  3. Thin SC-76 Cara-bein Blue to wash over the nose.
  4. Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 1 coat of SC-11 Blue yonder over the nose.
  5. Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply 2 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail for the mouth, 2 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo on the rest on the unglazed parts.
  6. Thin SC-15 Tuxedo like water use to float over the body of the robot, this will puddle into the detail from the serrated tool.
  7. Using a CB-106 #6 Script Liner, apply SC-15 Tuxedo to paint on the heart beat lines on the mouth.
  8. Using a CB-602 #2 Soft Fan apply 1 coat of SC-15 Tuxedo to the inside of the robot.
  9. Since washes of color are used. Apply 2 coats of S-2101 Crystal Clear Brushing Glaze to the inside and outside of the robot. Make sure to clean out any areas the light bulbs and wires will be attached after firing. Allow to dry.
  10. Stilt fire to shelf cone 06/05.
  11. Use epoxy to glue the parts onto the robot, but other good glues will also work.


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