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Browse ArtLink lesson plans.

canvas Cobblestone SC crop

Products Used

  • Earthenware tile
  • FN-009 Black
  • SC-11 Blue Yonder
  • SC-73 Candy Apple Red
  • SC-98 Slime Time
  • SG-202 White Cobblestone

Decorating Accessories

  • Soft Fan Brush
  • Liner Brush
  • Pencil
  • Scissors




Designer: Kaitlyn Miller





  1. Wipe off bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dust.
  2. Cut out desired shapes for masking out of paper and set aside.
  3. Be sure shapes are small enough to fit on tile with space in between.
  4. Apply 2 coats of black (FN-009) to your tile with a soft fan brush.
  5. Be sure to allow glaze to dry between coats. Brushing the second coat on in the opposite direction will help mask brush strokes.
  6. While second coat of glaze is wet, place cut shapes onto tile in desired design.
  7. Apply 2 coats of White Cobblestone (SG-202) to the tile, brushing outward over paper to ensure sharp edges.
  8. Remove paper shapes from tile before glaze is fully dry. 
  9. Tint Cobblestone by adding one coat of color on top and with Slime Time (SC-98) and Blue Yonder (SC-11). 
  10. Apply one coat of White Cobblestone (SG-202) inside the black areas revealed by removing the paper leaving a black outline around each shape. 
  11. Tint the Cobblestone shapes by applying one coat of Candy Apple Red (SC-73) leaving the black outline around each shape . 
  12. Allow to dry completely. 
  13. Fire to Cone 06.

canvas CG owl crop

Products Used

  • Earthenware tile
  • FN-001 White
  • SC-6 Sunkissed
  • SC-76 Cara-Bein Blue
  • SC-97 Cant-elope
  • CG-753 Sassy Orange
  • SG-Black Designer Liner

Decorating Accessories

  • ST-125 Wave Stamp
  • AC-230 Clay Carbon Transfer Paper
  • Pencil
  • Sponge
  • Owl Pattern or paper with own drawing




Designer: Kaitlyn Miller





  1. Wipe off bisque with a damp sponge.
  2. Place tile over owl pattern and trace tile size around owl- keeping the owl in the center. If choosing to draw your own pattern, trace size of tile on paper to be sure your owl fits inside.
  3. Cut Clay Carbon Transfer Paper (AC-230) to size and tape to the back of owl pattern so the rough side is exposed.
  4. Be sure to only tape at the edge so the tape does not interfere with the transfer.
  5. Place paper and pattern on top of tile carbon paper side down and tape so it stays in place.
  6. Using a soft graphite pencil, trace lines of pattern applying enough pressure to transfer.
  7. You can check by pulling up one corner of your page that the transfer was successful while keeping other pieces of tape down to avoid needing to re-align.
  8. Remove paper once transfer is complete and set owl pattern aside to be used again.
  9. Trace the design on tile with a pencil so lines are easier to see when glazing.
  10. Graphite will burn out when piece is fired.
  11. With a soft brush, apply one coat of White (FN-001) to the background allowing glaze to come right up to the outline of the owl
  12. Once dry apply Cara-bein Blue (SC-76) and Sunkissed (SC-6) to the background as a watercolor wash, picking up color with a wet brush and blending it into the background.
  13. Apply 2 coats of Cant-elope (SC-97) to the top of the owl’s head (the area between the ears and above the eyes) and let dry.
  14. Cut the top of head area out of your owl pattern and tape edges down to the tile so only the most recently glazed area is exposed.
  15. Using a sponge, apply and even layer of Cara-bein Blue to the Wave Stamp (ST-125)
  16. Apply stamp to the top of the head by firmly pressing the stamp down on the exposed tile.
  17. Pull back stamp to reveal design and remove paper.
  18. Apply one heavy coat of Sassy Orange (CG-753) being sure to mix up the glaze well and apply extra crystals.
  19. Apply 2 coats of Sassy Orange to the wings.
  20. Use back of brush or fingers to knock most crystals off of the wings and add to body with a little more glaze.
  21. If you create a bare spot on a wing just cover up with a little more glaze.
  22. Apply 2 coats of White (FN-001) to eyes and inner ears.
  23. Apply 2 coats of Sunkissed (SC-6) to beak.
  24. Using Cant-elope apply a light wash of orange in the inner ear by picking up a small amount of color with a wet brush.
  25. Apply Cara-bein blue to the center of the eye and outward using the same wash technique.
  26. Outline the design using Black Designer Liner (SG-401).
  27. Squeeze Designer Liner out onto pallet and add a little water pick up with brush to apply to center of the eyes.
  28. Allow to dry completely.
  29. Fire to Cone 06.

DL clay yoga01 crop

Products Used

  • Low-fire white clay
  • SG-401 Black
  • SG-402 White
  • SG-403 Red
  • SG-404 Blue
  • SG-409 Light Green
  • S-2010 Crystal Clear Brushing 


  • Fettling Knife
  • Needle Tool
  • Sponge
  • Water
  • Brushes for glazing
Designer: Kaitlyn Miller


  1. Handbuilding
    1. Roll small ball of clay (1/2 lb or less)
    2. Create pinch pot by sticking thumb into the middle of the clay ball and pinching while rotating the clay in your hand.
    3. Once your pot is formed in the desired shape smooth out any cracks with your finger and a little water.
    4. Place pot down on the table to create a flat bottom to attach legs.
    5. Roll out two small coils that are twice the thickness of a pencil and similar in length with two flat ends to build on to.
    6. Depending on your desired leg position the length and thickness of the legs my vary, they must be sturdy enough to support the body if your figure is standing.
    7. Create feet by rolling out small balls of clay and flattening out the connection point with your thumb.
    8. Attach feet to legs by slipping and scoring.
    9. Attach pot (body) to the top of the legs by slipping and scoring. You may need to play around with placement and weight distribution before attaching to be sure your figure will still stand.
    10. Roll out two coils for the arms that are about the thickness of a pencil and similar in length.
    11. Create hands by rolling two small balls of clay to be attached to the end of the arms.
    12. The arms and hands will be smaller than the legs and feet as they are not weight baring.
    13. Attach hands and arms together by slipping and scoring.
    14. Attach arms to the body by slipping and scoring. The angle at which the arm is attached to the body will depend on your desired arm position, be sure to create a flat edge to attach the arm to the body with.
    15. Smooth out any cracks or imperfections with finger and/or sponge.
    16. Allow to dry fully and bisque fire to Cone 04.
  2. Glazing
    1. Wipe off bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dust.
    2. Decide where you would like to apply color to your doodle and where you would like the black lines to be. You can use a pencil to sketch out your design on the bisque
    3. Squirt out a small amount of each designer liner onto your pallet.
    4. Using a soft bristled round brush apply color to your doodle, by picking up color from your pallet with a wet brush and applying to your piece in the same way that you would apply watercolor.
    5. Once your color is applied add your doodle lines with the black designer liner using the writer tip on the bottle. It can help if you make a few practice lines on your pallet or a crap piece of paper to get used to drawing with the bottle.
    6. Once all details are added allow designer liner to dry completely.
    7. Add 2 coats of Crystal Clear Brushing over the entire piece with a soft fan brush.
    8. Allow to dry completely and glaze fire to Cone 06 using stilts.
DL clay yoga03 crop DL clay yoga05 crop DL clay yoga04 crop

Animal proof dishes01 crop

Products Used

  • Low-fire white clay
  • **Various Stroke & Coat colors 
  • SC-1 Pink-a-Boo
  • SC-6 Sunkissed
  • SC-11 Blue Yonder
  • SC-15 Tuxdeo
  • SC-16 Cotton Tail
  • SC-23 Jack O’Lantern
  • SC-34 Down to Earth
  • SC-35 Gray Hare
  • SC-41 Brown Cow
  • SC-73 Candy Apple Red
  • SC-86 Old Lace

Decorating Accessories

  • Slap Roller or rolling pin
  • GR Form 5” Circle
  • Thick upholstery foam
  • Sponge
  • Fettling Knife
  • Rib
  • NeedleTool
  • Water
  • Paper or patterns
  • Pencil
  • Scissors
Designer: Kaitlyn Miller


  1. Trace GR from wide side down on a piece of paper to establish base dish shape or use provided pattern.
  2. Sketch out animal form using the traced circle as your base and cut out shape or use a provided pattern.
  3. Roll out a slab that is about 1/8” thick and compress with rib.
  4. Place animal shape down on slab and trace with needle tool.
  5. Cut out shape from slab. Smooth out cut edges with sponge. Place slab on top of foam.
  6. If using something that you don’t want to get clay on, lay a piece of plastic down in between your foam and clay.
  7. Place GR from small side down on top of clay in the center of your animal shape. Press down firmly on the GR form and release.
  8. Remove GR form revealing dish. Clean up with sponge. Paint on design using 2-3 coats of Stroke & Coat.
  9. Allow coats to dry in between applications.
  10. Allow to dry fully and once fire to Cone 06.
  11. Glaze will fire glossy.

Complementary Vase handbuilt crop

Products Used

  • Low-fire white clay
  • FN-18 Bright Blue
  • FN-12 Lavender
  • FN-3 Orange
  • FN-2 Yellow


  • SL-441 Spots Stencil
  • Paper
  • Pencil
  • Scissors
  • Fettling Knife
  • Rib
  • Sponge
  • Water
  • Brushes for glazing
  • Container for mixing and pouring glaze
Designer: Kaitlyn Miller


  1. Handbuilding
    1. Fold paper vertically and sketch profile of vase form.
    2. Cut out design and unfold.
    3. Roll out a slab about 1/4” thick and compress with rib.
    4. Trace shape of vase onto slab twice and cut out so you have 2 identical pieces.
    5. Cut strips of clay from slab that are about 2 long enough to make the sides and bottom of vase. You can use a string to measure the length if needed.
    6. Place one side of the vase down and slip and score to attach sides and base.
    7. Option to add crumpled paper in the center of vase for support.
    8. Slip and score to attach other side.
    9. Once attached stand up on base and clean up seams.
    10. Allow to dry fully and bisque fire to Cone 04.
  2. Glazing
    1. Wipe off bisque with a damp sponge to remove any dust.
    2. Pour about 1/3 cup of Bright Blue (FN-18) and thin slightly with a splash of water . Ratio about 5 parts glaze to 1 part water.
    3. Mix up thinned glaze and pour into the inside of the vase.
    4. Rock north, south, east and west to coat the whole inside and pour out access.
      a. Touch up missed spots with a brush if necessary .
      b. Wipe any drips on the outside of the vase off with a damp sponge.
    5. Using a pencil, draw 2 horizontal lines around the middle of the vase, indicating the blend zone.
    6. Using a soft fan brush Bright Blue (FN-18) apply your first coat of glaze to the top half of the front and back faces of the face, stopping at the mid-point if the blend zone. 
    7. Apply one coat of Lavender (FN-12) to the front and back faces of the vase from where the Bright Blue stops to the bottom.
    8. When applying the second and third coats of these glazes, begin to blend them together in the bled zone by brushing one over the other while the glazes are still wet to create an ombré effect.
    9. Apply glaze to the sides of the vase in the same way with Orange (FN-3) on the top and Yellow (FN-2) on the bottom.
    10. Continue the Yellow all the way to the bottom of the vase, covering the foot in glaze.
    11. Once color is dry use stencil and a detail brush to apply spot pattern on vase, using each color’s complement as the spot color on top .
      a. Bright Blue – Orange
      b. Lavender – Yellow
    12. Move the stencil around the vase to create a unique spot pattern, choosing spots of different sizes.
    13. Apply 2 more coats of the colors onto the spots, you may use the stencil again or continue to trace the shape free handed.
    14. Apply 3 coats of Bright Blue to the rim of the vase.
    15. Allow to dry fully and fire to Cone 06 using stilts.

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