• Mayco Designer Silkscreens are a great and easy way to add intricate detail to your work.
    Read More
  • Mayco Flux - SW-401 Light Flux & SW-402 Dark Flux Movement • Interaction • Beauty Mayco's SW-401 Light Flux and SW-402 Dark Flux
    Read More
  • 16 new stoneware glazes, including 6 soft mattes and 7 crystals. we also introduce a zinc-free clear that works well
    Read More
  • Convert your original artwork - or artwork for which you have the legal rights to use* - into a hand-applied silkscreen. No
    Read More
load more / hold SHIFT key to load all load all

Browse ArtLink lesson plans.

 

UG red clay TTO crop

Products Used

Bisque
  •  Low-fire Red Clay (Laguna EM-106)

Color
  • UG-97 Bright Blue 
  • UG-206 Fire Engine Red 
  • UG-50 Jet Black
  • UG-46 Bright Yellow
  • UG-51 China White

Decorating Accessories

  • MT-003 Brick Stamp 
  • RB-100 Detail Liner Brush 

Miscellaneous Accessories

  • Cardboard
  • Sgraffito tool
  • Paper, Pencil, Scissors
  • Fettling Knife
  • Rib
  • Water, Sponge, Straw
Designer: Kaitlyn Miller
 
 
Instructions
  1. Roll out a ¼” thick slab and cut into a 5”x7” rectangle. Compress both sides with rib.
  2. Sketch out shape that script will go inside and cut stencil out of cardboard. Sketch script to go inside the shape on paper and set aside.
  3. Place the cardboard stencil on slab and place texture mat overtop (MT-003 Brick). Firmly press texture mat into clay being careful not to move it around. Pull mat away slowly reviling texture and remove stencil.
  4. Using a straw, punch a hole for the tile to hang from at the top of the rectangle.
  5. Thin a small amount of black underglaze with water to create a wash. Paint wash onto textured surface.
  6. Using a dry sponge remove glaze access glaze from the relief leaving glaze only in the indentations.
  7. Cut paper with your script sketch to fit inside logo area. Place on clay, trace script with pencil and peel away revealing indentation.
  8. Using detail liner brush and white underglaze, trace outline of design.
  9. Using detail liner brush and red underglaze, fill in script littering. Apply a second coat once the first is fully dry.
  10. Using detail liner brush and blue underglaze, fill in logo shape around the words leaving some room around the edges. Apply a second coat once the first is fully dry.
  11. While the blue underglaze is still wet, apply yellow underglaze to the edges of your logo, allowing the colors to blend. Apply a second coat to just the edges once first coat is completely dry.
  12. Using detail liner brush, apply a second coat of white underglaze to the outline.
  13. Apply black underglaze wash around the outside of logo to create depth.
  14. Using a sgraffito tool once black wash dry, scrape away access wash to create highlights on the textured surface. Allow to dry completely.
  15. Bisque fire to cone 04.
  16. If a clear coat is desired, apply clear glaze and re-fire to cone 06.
IMG 7679 crop  IMG 7681 crop  IMG 7683 crop

 

sealife EL grouping crop

Products Used

Bisque
  •  earthenware white clay

Color
  • See below instructions

Decorating Accessories

  • See below instructions

Miscellaneous Accessories

  • See below instructions  
Designer: Carmen Allen
 
 
Instructions

SQUID – HAND BUILDING

  1. Begin with about a 1# ball of clay and pinch out into a pinch pot. Keep it tall and narrow for the squid’s body with a cone at the top (top of the squid’s head, but the bottom of the pinch pot).
  2. Roll out a slab about ¼” thick and apply MT004 Swirls.
  3. Cut out fins from the textured slab and attach to the pinch pot by slipping and scoring.
  4. Cut a hole out of the top for hanging.
  5. Let dry completely and bisque fire.

SQUID – GLAZING

  1. Apply 1 coat of EL-207 Gold Mine.
  2. Apply 2 coats of EL-118 Blue Grotto to the inside and outside.
  3. Use a CB-604 #4 Soft fan to plop PC-601 Clear Cascades, PC-602 White Cascades, and EL-118 Blue Grotto. Let dry and repeat.
  4. Apply squiggles of SC-15 Tuxedo randomly.
  5. Use a pipe cleaner to clean any glaze out of the hole in the top.
  6.  Let dry completely.
  7. Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.

JELLYFISH – HAND BUILDING

  1. Begin with about a 1# ball of clay and pinch out into a dome-shaped pinch pot
  2. Roll out a slab about ¼” thick and apply MT009 Scallops.
  3. Cut out fins from the textured slab and attach to the pinch pot by slipping and scoring.
  4. Cut a hole out of the top for hanging.
  5. Let dry completely and bisque fire. 

JELLYFISH – GLAZING

  1. Apply 2 coats of EL-117 Waterfall to the inside and outside of the piece.
  2. Use a CB-604 #4 Soft fan to plop PC-601 Clear Cascades, PC-602 White Cascades, and EL-117 Waterfall. Let dry and repeat.
  3. Use a pipe cleaner to clean any glaze out of the hole in the top.
  4. Let dry completely.
  5. Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.

OCTOPUS – HAND BUILDING

  1. Begin with about a 1# ball of clay and pinch out into a long bulb. Try and bring it back in toward the top.
  2. Roll out and attach coils to extend the bulb and finish the octopus’ body.
  3. Attach small balls for the eyes and add a coil to create a brow or socket for the eye to sit in.
  4. Cut a hole in the top for hanging.
  5. Let dry completely and bisque fire.

OCTOPUS – GLAZING

  1. Apply 2 coats of EL-107 Amber Ash to the inside and outside.
  2. Apply 2 coats of EL-133 Autumn.
  3. Wipe away any glaze on the eyes and apply 2 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo and 1 dot of SC-16 Cotton Tail as a highlight.
  4. Use a pipe cleaner to clean any glaze out of the hole in the top.
  5. Let dry completely.
  6. Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06. 

PUFFER FISH – HAND BUILDING

  1. Roll out a slab that is about ¼”-1/2” thick and apply MT007 Divots.
  2. Cut out 2 circles and slump over a bowl so that the texture is on the outside of the domes.
  3. Once they have set up for about 20 min and a bit more stable. Take each half of the dome and press together. We wanted a more oblong/oval shape for the body. So, in order for the pieced to fit together this way, the edges needed to be trimmed accordingly.
  4. Once both pieces can be aligned, slip and score the edges to attach.
  5. Cut a larger hole out of the top for plants to come out of and a small hole directly beneath for hanging (the rope will come up out of the plant hole to hang).
  6. Attach fins, tail, mouth, and eyes and add texture and details as you please.
  7. Let dry completely and bisque fire.

PUFFER FISH – GLAZING

  1. Apply 3 coats of EL-136 Lapis Lagoon to the entire piece.
  2. Apply 1 thinned coat of EL-134 Mirror Blue.
  3. Apply 2 coats of EL-121 Copper Adventuring to the fins. Wipe away any base glaze if you want to see the brown otherwise, it will just be green (we left a strip at the top of each fin).
  4. Wipe glaze off of the eyes and apply 1 coat of SC-16 Cotton Tail.
  5. Apply 2 coats of SC-77 Glo Worm and 1 coat of SC-26 Green Thumb to the rim of the iris.
  6. Apply 2 coats of SC-15 Tuxedo to the pupil and add some dots of SC-16 Cotton Tail as a highlight.
  7. Use a pipe cleaner to clean any glaze out of the hole for hanging.
  8. Let dry completely.
  9. Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.

NAUTILUS – HAND BUILDING

  1. Roll out a slab that is about ¼”-1/2” thick and apply ST128 Zebra.
  2. Cut out 2 circles and slump over a bowl so that the texture is on the outside of the domes.
  3. Once they have set up for about 20 min and a bit more stable. Take each half of the dome and press together. Slip and score to attach.
  4. Cut out about ¼ of the dome. Keep the edge curved.
  5. Attach a triangle to the top of the opening as the hood.
  6. Roll out some spheres and attach the eyes.
  7. Cut a hole in the top for hanging.
  8. Let dry completely and bisque fire.

NAUTILUS – GLAZING

  1. Apply 2 coats of EL-122 Malachite to the inside, hood, and the bottom crest (up about 1”)
  2. Apply 2 coats of EL-123 Patina to the rest of the body. Overlapping a bit with the malachite that is on the bottom crest.
  3. Wipe any glaze off of the eyes and apply 2 coats of SC-16 Cotton Tail. Add SC-15 Tuxedo as the pupil.
  4. Use a pipe cleaner to clean any glaze out of the hole in the top.
  5. Let dry completely.
  6. Stilt and fire to shelf cone 06.
sealife EL 03 crop sealife EL 01 crop  sealife EL 05 crop 
sealife EL 04 crop sealife EL 02 crop  

 

FN mat mugs upright cropped

Products Used

Bisque
  • White Earthenware Clay

Color
  • FN-002 Yellow
  • FN-207 Orange Slice
  • FN-216 Sea Glass

Decorating Accessories

  • MT-003 Brick
  • MT-012 Ikat
  • MT-013 Honeycomb
  • RB-144 #4 Soft Fan

Miscellaneous Accessories

  • Rolling Pin
  • Ruler or straight edge 

 

Designer: Elizabeth Carey
 
 

Description

Creating hand-built vessels is a great way to explore the physical requirement for a functional mug. Spend time researching mug and handle shapes throughout history and have each student select a mug and handle shape. Mugs throughout history have changed dramatically. How does the mug need to stand? Where is the best place to put a handle for even weight distribution? How much liquid should the mug hold? These are all questions that the students should answer to start creating their perfect mug.

Objectives

  • Students will experience using a slab roller
  • Students will research mugs throughout history
  • Students will explore shapes and designs of handle creation

Instructions

  1. Begin with about 3# of wedged clay and rolling out a slab about ¼” thick.
  2. Either pull the handles or roll coils for the handles and shape on the table to set up a bit.
  3. Make the base of the mug by cutting out a circle from the slab for a flat bottom or pinching a small bowl to make a lifted bottom (if you have access to wheels this is also an option to make the lifted bottom, but be sure to account for drying time if using this method).
  4. Place a mat of your choice onto the slab and gently press down with your hand from the center outward. Once the mat is secure, use a rolling pin to fully and evenly press it into the slab. Gently remove the mat.
  5. Use a straight edge to cut about a 4” tall band. Depending on the size of your base it will need to be about 6”-10” long. We would recommend leaving it kind of long and precisely measuring it in the next step.
  6. Place your slab vertically on top of your base and wrap it around so it is forming the top of the mug. Cut off any excess length from the slab, but be sure to leave about ¼”-1/2” overlap for slipping and scoring.
  7. Lay the slab back on the table and score the inside of one edge and the outside of the other, as well as the bottom edge of the slab. Set slab up vertically and attach both ends with water or slip. Be sure to pinch firmly with your finger.
  8. Score the top edge of your base, add water and align the top cylinder, firmly pressing down to ensure a strong connection.
  9. Attach handle to the mug by slipping and scoring both the attachment points of the handle and where they attach to the piece. Firmly press the handle into the piece; you may need to provide support from the inside to avoid any warping.
  10. Clean up your seams and edges.
  11. Loosely cover with plastic and allow to dry slowly before bisque firing.
  12. Fire to cone 04.
  13. Using the Soft Fan, apply 3 coats of FN-002 Yellow, FN-207 Orange Slice, or FN-216 Sea Glass to the corresponding mug. Allow glaze to dry between coats.
  14. 14. Fire to cone 06.

SC98 octopus handbuilt crop

Products Used

Clay
  • low-fire white clay
Color
  • SC-99 Char-ming
  • SC-26 Green Thumb
  • SC-37 Ivory Tower
  • SC-29 Blue Grass
  • SC-98 Slime Time

Decorating Accessories

  • Stamp mat Swirls (MT-004/E)
  • CB-110 #10/0 Mini Liner
  • CB-404 #4 Pointed Round
  • CB-604 Soft Fan
  • CD-778 Flowers & Leaves Press Mold 

Miscellaneous Accessories

  • Wire tool
  • Pin tool
  • Fettling knife
  • Sponge
  • Water
  • Tooth Brush
  • Paper
  • Scissors

 

Designer: Bre Kathman
 

Description

For grade levels 3-8

Objectives

  • Students will experience the use of clay techniques and processes.

  • Students will gain firsthand knowledge of how to make animals out of clay.

  • Students will create textures to express real-life objects.

Instructions

  1. Using about ½ lb of clay, create a baseball-sized pinch pot. Smooth out any cracks that form and place open side down to create the body.

  2. Roll out 8 coils of varying lengths about ¾” thick tapering at the end.

  3. Flatten the thicker end of the coil to attach to the body.

  4. Press backside of the coil into stamp pad to create “suction cup” texture.

  5. Attach flattened end to octopus body by slipping and scoring.

  6. Repeat steps 3-5 to attach all the coils. Gently weave the coils around each other while attaching being careful not to break any off.

  7. Using thumbs, push into the body to create indentations for the eyes above where tentacles are attached.

  8. Roll two small balls for the eyes and attach by slipping and scoring.

  9. Using the eraser side of a pencil, dip pencil in water and press into center of eye to create the pupil.
  10. Let dry completely

  11. Bisque fire to Cone 04

  12. Inlay Char-Ming into texture on tentacles by painting one thick layer of the glaze onto the textured surface, wait for the glaze to dry and wipe away with damp sponge.

  13. Using Green Thumb, paint one layer of glaze around the outer edge of the textured areas.

  14. Paint 2 coats of Slime Time all over the entire octopus avoiding the eyes.

  15. Add an extra 3rd coat of Slime time to any area that does not have another glaze underneath.

  16. Using a small detail liner brush, paint Blue Grass into the pupils of the eyes.

  17. Paint 2 coats of Ivory Tower onto the whites of the eyeballs.

  18. Cut a circle large enough to cover eyes and part of the head.

     

  19. When the glaze is dry, wet paper circle with a sponge and place it over eyes and part of the head as a masking tool.

     

  20. Using a toothbrush, splatter Blue Grass on uncovered parts of octopus.

     

  21. Remove paper before the glaze is completely dry.

     

  22. Let dry completely

     

  23. Fire stilted piece to Cone 06

 

Products Used

Bisque
  • 6" Tile
Color
  • CG-985 Monet's Pond
  • SC-27 Sour Apple
  • SC-15 Tuxedo
  • SC-12 Moody Blue
  • S-2101 Clear

Decorating Accessories

  • CB-109 Script Liner
  • CB-110 Liner
  • CB-604 Soft Fan

Miscellaneous Accessories

  • liquid dish soap
  • small dixie cup
  • straw
  • TBS measuring spoon
  • Pattern: Download
bubble fish tile
Designer: Marcia Roullard
 
 

Instructions

  1. Begin with a properly fired shelf cone 04 Bisque. Moisten a clean sponge and wipe bisque to remove dust.
  2. Trace on the pattern, brush two heavy coats of CG-985 Monet's Pond to the middle section of the fish, make sure to stir to get an even distribution of crystals.
  3. Brush the fins and the head with SC-27 Sour Apple, while the color is wet, drag in Monet's Pond into the wet glaze in brush strokes.
  4. Outline and detail the fins with SC-15 Tuxedo, use CB-110 Liner.
  5. In the small dixie cup, mix 1 TBS of SC-12 Moody BLue, 2 TBS of water and 2 drops of liquid soap. Depending on the size of the container, the recipe should be doubled if the bubbles aren't reaching over the edge of the container.
  6. With a straw, blow into the mix, bubbles should form and bubble over the edge of the container. Press the tile to the bubbles, let them break on their own. Or let the bubble drop onto the tile, let them break on their own.
  7. Brush the background of the tile with two coats of S-2101 Clear.
  8. Fire to cone 06. 

Who We Are

Our purpose, history, and policies

About Us

Site Map

Warranty & Freeze Policy

Where To Buy

Find the best place to purchase Mayco products

Dealers & Retailers

Distributors

PYOP & Ceramic Studios 

Contact Us

 (614) 876-1171 |   (614) 876-9904

info@maycocolors.com

Technical Support

614-675-2031

technical@maycocolors.com

Newsletter Sign-up